In the continuing saga of trying to get my beloved Formula
to pass emissions this year I bring you my latest adventure.
Just to catch you up, the story is this.
My registration came up and when I dutifully reported to my
local emissions testing station I was sadly informed that my car had
failed...badly.
The only thing I passed was the gas cap test. HC and CO were twice the acceptable values
and NOx was even worse at 3 times the standard.
So I attacked the problem by switching back to Premium fuel,
dealing with a bad EGR and Fuel Pressure Regulator and chasing down vacuum
leaks.
Which is an excellent segue to my current project. During my "leak" hunt I discovered
that my PCV valve appeared to be the original piece. Meaning it was time for replacement along
with its associated vacuum line which after 20 years was as brittle as a potato
chip.
I'd been doing some research on emissions failures and
happened across a few videos about the benefits of combustion chamber
cleaning. I'm not talking about sticking
a bottle in your gas tank at the next fill up.
Rather this is a process targeted specifically at cleaning up the
combustion chambers and upper cylinders.
Some may call it snake oil but there is something to be said about
trying to get rid of some of that built up carbon that inevitably bakes itself
onto the tops of your pistons. The cause?
Poor quality fuel, neglected maintenance
and issues with the ignition system just to name a few.
LT1's have a compression ratio of 10.5 to 1 right out of the
factory, a bunch of crap on top of a piston after 100,000 miles decreases cylinder
area and increases compression. That
leads to pre-ignition which is an uncontrolled explosion that happens sometime
other than when the spark plug fires. Uncontrolled
explosions are ok for diesel engines, not LT1's. It's a bad thing unless of course you like
the idea of hammering the tops of your pistons and potentially bending a
connecting rod.
There are a number of products out there to clean up the
combustion chamber with some more snake oil than others but the two most
popular are Seafoam and B12.
I chose the B12 Combustion Chamber Cleaner Part # 2610 after
seeing a few YouTube videos and reading up on it. I'd been running lower octane fuel for the
past year to save a few bucks. The car
could tolerate it for awhile but not indefinitely and there would be a price to
pay.
Call it a penance for the few bucks I'd saved by not giving
the car the quality of fuel it really needed.
The procedure was fairly simple once I figured out what vacuum
port to use. Access to anything under
the hood of a 4th generation Firebird is difficult. Finding the right vacuum port without
breaking parts that have been cooking under it for 20 years even more so.
I found a suitable port in the driver's side of the LT1
intake manifold right above the PCV valve I was fighting with earlier.
I popped off the vacuum tee that was attached to it and connected the hose from the can of B12 making sure it wasn't in danger of contacting anything that could ruin my day.
I popped off the vacuum tee that was attached to it and connected the hose from the can of B12 making sure it wasn't in danger of contacting anything that could ruin my day.
One thing to be careful with here is to make sure to use the
included hoses that come in the B12 kit.
There's an inline tee that functions to vent the line to keep the flow
constant.
Once connected, it's pretty simple. Start the car and let it run until the can is empty. In my case it took about 15 minutes.
Once connected, it's pretty simple. Start the car and let it run until the can is empty. In my case it took about 15 minutes.
I noticed some white smoke and water vapor coming out of the exhausts during the process as well as a slight chemical smell. Nothing of note really aside from the wet spots immediately under the exhaust tips that seemed to stain the concrete a bit.
If there was anything that alarmed me it was the sounds my
catalytic converter made while the B12 made its way to the exhaust system. A steady rattle that sounded like ball
bearings in a metal coffee can. Happily,
a sound that went away once the can was emptied.
Recall that the catalytic converter is likely on its way out
anyway. In fact the whole point of this emissions adventure is to see if I can get the
car to pass without investing $250 in a new one.
After the process completed and everything underhood was
returned to normal I took the car out for a few runs up and down the freeway to
burn off whatever B12 was left. Some
have reported dramatic smoking akin to all those SeaFoam videos but I didn't
see much of anything.
What I did notice was a bit smoother power delivery and a
lessening of a slight miss at idle that I've had since I bought the car. The instructions mention that using B12 may
set a trouble code that can be safely reset without concern. I saw no such code get set. Apparently in some cases the amount of
contaminants being sent out the exhaust can give a false positive to O2
sensors.
Will this finally get me through emissions? I don't know.
The only thing left to do now is an oil change immediately before taking
it in again. I'll wait a week to make
sure all the B12 solvents are completely burned off to ensure I don't
contaminate the new oil. Not a big deal
since I don't have that much oil blow-by anyway so I don't expect much of the
B12 got into the crankcase.
Whatever the outcome of the test, none of these activities
were a waste of time even if the car fails again. The EGR and Fuel Pressure Regulator weren't
working, the PCV valve and its grommet was overdue for replacement, vacuum
lines needed to be checked, the car needed to be running the right grade of
fuel and the combustion chamber was overdue for a cleaning.
I'm just hoping I can put off the bill for a new Cat!
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