Showing posts with label fix. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fix. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 22, 2018

The story of the Formula and a 2018 update



You've seen a lot about the Formula in this blog and even more so on my YouTube Channel.  The Video above is simply a kind of "State of the Union" for the car and as a bonus gives a little backstory.

So kick back, enjoy the views and a little storytelling.

My friends often kid me about my stories.

I should just "strike up a campfire and start spinning yarns they say."

Well, here's one for ya!

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

The Firebird Project - New Front Shocks...and more!


Once again we come to a crossroads.  

Fix it or ditch it. 

Is it good money after bad or is it an investment in the future.  Only you can answer that but if you extend your best foot forward every time at least you can be confident that you didn't cheat the process.

So it went with the latest project on the Formula.  Do we ignore obvious problems and just stick to the original plan or do we dig a little deeper and see if we can't advance toward our ultimate goal.

The desired result was to replace the front shocks, that was going to happen regardless.  However, experience has taught me that we weren't going to get away that easily.  The end result was not so much a surprise as an inevitability.

In the videos below you'll learn what it takes to tackle this project as well as learn about what you should be watching for.

Remember, you're dealing with a primary safety system here.  Shortcuts only invite disaster.

I'm hopeful the following is helpful in your project!









Saturday, February 17, 2018

Car Maintenance 101: The oil change


Cars don't fix themselves and they don't maintain themselves either no matter what the dealer told you.

To that end I went through my car repair videos on my YouTube channel and discovered that I had no videos of the most basic of car repairs.  The oil change.  It's simple and usually the first thing the budding enthusiasts learns to do.  To that end I tried to cover the topic comprehensively from draining the old oil to getting rid of it and of course safety.

So enjoy this latest installment of The Firebird Project!



Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Shocking! - The El Camino needs some attention


Seems the Formula has gotten all the attention but I have 2 project cars and the other one wanted some attention.

How did I know?  

Well, I was a bit dense.  Any car guy with a project will tell you that it's sometimes a game of denial.  We simply can't accept that something we already fixed may need attention again.

So it goes with my shocks.  I had changed them but it had been so long that I didn't realize just how many miles they've soaked up holding up the front end of 4000 pound car.

So it was with the El Camino.  Now I should know better having changed the transmission 3 times, carburetor at least 5 times not to mention a myriad of other things.


But the shocks, I thought they had plenty of time left.  

Well, truth be told the shocks were one of the first things I ever replaced on the El Camino which puts the timeframe somewhere around 1992.   Before the engine change, before the new paint job and of course before 80,000 miles had passed under the third set of tires.

Yeah, it was time.  More accurately, it was overdue.

The signs were there just not obvious to my rose colored perspective.

The front end sat too low, so low in fact that I could no longer get a jack under the front of the car.  

Hard stops became a bit scary with the car diving to one side or the other.

Then the handling... Any imperfection in the road caused varied degrees of drama.

Yes, time to do something.  So I did and the video below shows the adventure.  Take a look.



Friday, August 18, 2017

The Formula Project: Back under the hood


It's been close to 4 years since I brought the Formula home.  4 years and 18000 miles later it's been a tale of love.  But not that sweet unconditional love beaming from your dog's eyes when she looks up at you.  No, no, no.  This is the kind of love that demands all of your attention, a few pounds of flesh and most of the contents of your wallet if you don't put the brakes on every once in awhile.

Love hurts....

One way or another it always does.

Considering my ownership of this family heirloom began with $500 worth of parts and the front of the engine in pieces within 24 hours of delivery the tone was set.

BUT!

Opportunities abound if your eyes are open.  Which led to a new YouTube channel and more relevant content in this blog.

I've been busy trying to make a living doing something other than turning a wrench or saving somebody's server so time's short and so is the money.  That means projects fall into 2 camps; Things I want to do to the Formula and things I HAVE to do.

Seems there's lots of things I've HAD to do in the past 6 months.  Luckily, every one of them has been documented with a video.

Speaking of which, the 3 videos below show what I've been up to.  To sum it up: The car doesn't sound like an old rocking chair anymore, the transmission stopped hitting the floorboards and starts easier now that the PCM has some clue as to what the engine termperature is.

Check it out!





Monday, May 29, 2017

Back on the Road: Formula VS Smog Check - Epilogue


A lot can happen in 5 months...

Back in December when I posted my last entry to this blog I wasn't sure what my future held.  All I had was hope and a belief that if I didn't give up things would eventually work out.

Which is exactly how I approached getting the Formula back on the road.

I'm not especially religious but I do believe the old adage that the good Lord doesn't give you anything you can't handle.

December is a pretty long time between posts but I haven't posted anything about the Formula since October of 2015!  That's because, well, honestly there was nothing to post about.

That changed recently.  I picked up some work in March which improved my fortunes.  Now the Formula was always at the top of my priority list but it became even more so as the weeks wore on and it became apparent that what I was driving to work was not ideal for the purpose.  

The Formula needed to be back on the road...Fast!

Of course that meant getting rid of the demons that had kept it chained to the garage for 2 years.  

Recall that we had already dealt with the Fuel Pressure regulator, EGR, got a new intake elbow and ran a few tanks of the proper octane fuel.  Sadly it wasn't enough.


The emissions testing results from 2015 while less than helpful at diagnosing the problem still pointed to a likely culprit.  A high HC reading, that's raw fuel.  High CO?  sloppy ignition system.  High NOx?  Combustion chamber temps too high.  All of them too high?  That points to a bad catalytic converter plain and simple.  

Lot's of things can go wrong with modern emissions control systems on cars but the symptoms would show up long before a failing smog test.  As in the car literally wouldn't run if you could get it to start at all if it was anything but the Cat.

1995 was an interesting year for auto makers.  It was the last year before they formally adopted the new ODB2 standard in emissions controls.  20 years later it's a pain in the ass.  For example, the Formula has a diagnostic port identical to an OBD2 connector but it isn't.  It's OBD1 which means you have a lot fewer codes to help point you in the direction of what's wrong.  Not to mention finding a scan tool that you can actually plug into it!

Still, there are basic emission codes that can be set if something was really going wrong and luckily none of them were set.  Although that's not definitive either since OBD1 has a far shallower pool of data to draw from.  That means things have to be really going sideways before you get any information out of that port.  By that time the code probably doesn't mean much to you.  

So...

Fast forward to the solution to my problem and we open on me in the parking lot of Mesa Muffler early on a Saturday morning.  


For less than $200 I was able to drive out with a new catalytic converter an hour later.  I immediately took the car out on the freeway to warm up the converter and then held my breath and got off on the exit that led to the emissions testing station.

As I pulled into the station, took my ticket and waited in a long line for my turn at the indignity of an Arizona emissions test my time had finally come.

I pulled up onto the rollers, turned off the car and dutifully retired to a cramped booth while the technician did his best to ruin my day...

He didn't.   At the end of it all I actually shook his hand and thanked him!  The Formula was finally legal after 2 years and all it took was a catalytic converter....



Oh yeah, and a MAP sensor, EGR, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Intake Elbow...

I documented the whole thing in the video below.  I'd have liked to get more of the actual test but I was rather forcefully discouraged by the technician.  



There was still work to do before the Formula started commuting duty, however.


We needed tires, badly.  We also needed a new belt tensioner pulley and weirdly a new gear for the headlight pop-up motor.  

So what's left?

I still need to deal with the fuel injectors as at least one is still leaking.  I still need to fix the headliner, get the hatch repainted.  All the normal stuff that a 20+ year old car would need.

In case you're interested, I've also included  a few videos below of the new tires and how I fixed the headlight motor.  I've been posting regular videos of my adventures with the Formula on my YouTube channel.  Check it out as I tend to update it more than this blog...obviously.




More as it happens!  

Tuesday, December 13, 2016

Fix It: Misfires, long cranks, bad mileage? Take a deep dive with me into a Tune Up!



Fuel, Air and Spark...

What does it really mean to do a tune-up on your car?  Regardless of what you may drive, if it has an internal combustion engine it's going to need 3 things: Fuel, Air and Spark.  When most people think tune-up they think ignition system ( SPARK ) At least with a gasoline powered vehicle.  Yes Diesel's are different but it's still Fuel, Air and BOOM!.

We're going to be dealing with the BOOM! in your gas powered engine today.  I'll show you the basics and try to answer the how and why's in the video below.  




Friday, November 18, 2016

Fix It: Finishing the Carter AFB Carburetor rebuild



No need for a lot of verbiage.  This is the conclusion of the carb rebuild series featuring the Carter AFB.  The Second video picks up where the first left off and shows you how to reassemble the Carter AFB carb and covers important topics like how to set float level, float drop, and initial setup.  There's also a bonus section on testing the fuel pump.

So enjoy and if you learned something, let me know!  I'm here to help!

Without further ado....



Thursday, November 17, 2016

Fix It: Rebuilding a carburetor


It's been a rough couple of months and after over a year of picking up the slack for the Formula, the El Camino is starting to show the strain.  It started with the brakes getting a little noisy, then 3 of 4 tires developed sidewall bulges.  From there we had battery, alternator and wiring issues.  Most recently I went on the hunt for the cause of some poor performance issues that led me to a bad vacuum advance unit that was doing little more than providing a huge vacuum leak through a ruptured internal diaphragm.

On the bright side it's provided excellent material for my videos over the past few months...

It was successful completion of that last project that provided the catalyst for the latest round of underhood gymnastics.  While we may have succeeded in restoring additional timing to the engine when it needed it via the new advance unit we uncovered other problems with the ignition system.  Problems that led to ripping it apart down to the spark plugs to chase down a mysterious misfire that was cropping up under part throttle loads.  

Add in a tired carburetor assembled in desperation from the best bits of 2 used examples and things get even more interesting.  When that carburetor stops responding to the input of the go pedal we have to address it.  Issues with the fuel system were also making it harder to diagnosis our mysterious misfire.  If the carb is starving the engine for fuel, it could be causing a lean misfire but now we're straying dangerously close to grasping at straws.  We need a baseline.

Time for a rebuild.

That's the thing about classic cars.  No matter how much money you put into them, the more you drive the more work you have to do.

We want to continue driving and to do that we need to fix what's broke.  We can't if we're trying to herd too many cats.

Once we straighten out the fuel system we'll have a better idea of where our misfire problem is coming from.  It's a process of elimination and honestly something that should have been done a long time ago.

Below is the first of 2 videos documenting the process of rebuilding the Carter AFB carburetor currently living on top of my El Camino's engine. 



Friday, September 23, 2016

Good Advice is hard to come by...




Opinions are like...well you know, we all have them.  But some opinions are more valuable than others.  When it comes to car repair you can't afford to take advice from someone who talks out of the orifice that shall remain nameless.


Eric the Car Guy is a mechanic with a YouTube channel.  There's a lot of them out there offering varying degrees of useful information but Eric is a little different.

He's not somebody "playing" mechanic, he actually is one and even better he's willing to tell you what really goes on in the minds of those we trust with our pride and joy.

Check out a few of the videos below and see if you don't learn something.







Thursday, August 4, 2016

High Energy Ignition (HEI) Vacuum Advance replacement


Old cars break stuff, it's a fact of life. Sometimes, however, it's not obvious that something's broke.  It's more subtle.

Hard starting, a loss of power or just that feeling like you're dragging an anchor behind you.  You'll get where you're going but it won't be as much fun getting there.

When everything else has been checked and you've got symptoms like the ones above it might be worth a look at your vacuum advance unit on your distributor.

Most points and early HEI ( non computer controlled) units will have them and when they go bad you usually don't get any notice.

There's two easy tests that don't involve anything but pulling the vacuum hose off the carburetor (because chances are you don't have fuel injection) and see what happens.

Get the engine to operating temperature and then pop the hose off the vacuum advance unit.  If the idle speed drops you know the unit is probably good.  If nothing happens it's probably bad.

Time for the next test.

Get a vacuum pump like a mighty vac hooked up to the vacuum advance unit and give a few squeezes.  Whether the engine is running or not, you should see some vacuum reading on the pump's vacuum gauge.  If the engine is running you may hear the engine speed up as well.

If you don't get either of those things and you know the pump is hooked up and working right then you've got a bad vacuum advance.

Trolling the automotive forums most people will tell you it's an easy fix.  You pop the distributor cap, remove a couple of bolts and wiggle the old one free.  Of course it gets more complicated if your distributor is hard to access and it's even worse when the engine is hot.  Yeah, you can probably change it in 5 minutes if you yanked the distributor out but that's usually an even bigger pain than dealing with it in the car if your setup is anything like mine.

I made the video below because nobody was ever going to read the 1000 words it would take to describe a 15 minute job.

So have at it and check off another little project on your classic car "to-do" list.


Saturday, October 31, 2015

Formula Vs. Smog Check: Testing Fuel Pressure and the MAP sensor


On this page are a couple of videos showing you the results of my Fuel Pressure Leak-down test and how to test a MAP sensor on an LT1 V8.  These are two important tests when you've got an emissions problem especially if the car is running rich.  

The fuel rail will bleed off some pressure over time but not all of it in a few minutes!  Anything more than a couple of PSI drop after a few hours means there's a leak in the system somewhere.  

It's important to mention that if at all possible, you really want to isolate the individual components of the fuel system when troubleshooting.  If you're testing the fuel rail and you don't know the condition of the fuel pressure regulator, for example, then ideally you'd want to block off any return lines to the tank so you don't confuse a bad fuel pressure regulator with say a stuck check ball in the fuel pump. 

If that's not possible then you're only going to get a general idea that there's a problem.  In which case you'll have to take into account other factors.  In my case I know the Fuel Pressure regulator is good ( brand new ) so I'm fairly confident that any pressure loss seen at the rail is going to be isolated to a component of that rail.  Note that all of this testing is done with the engine off.  With the engine running other factors like the Fuel Pump, Injector pulse time and engine vacuum come into play which can mask a basic fuel pressure problem.  

Incidentally, you won't see it in the video but the way to isolate the fuel system to check for what part is causing you the headaches involves either pinching off the return lines or installing a shutoff valve.  I don't have the valve and I'm not about to start pinching anything made of plastic that's been baking under the hood of a car for 20 years.   So I didn't do that test but a rich mixture is more likely to be a fuel injector than a check ball in a fuel pump at the back of the car.  I was more interested in seeing if there was a drop in pressure in general.  

Once I can afford a new set of Injector O-rings I'll be pulling the injectors out, priming the rail and seeing which one(s) are leaking.

As for the MAP sensor testing, well, it's always the first thing blamed right behind the O2 sensor when an engine is running to rich or lean.  That makes sense since those sensors as well as the MAF (Mass Air Flow) provide critical data to the engine's PCM to adjust the mixture rate.  There are others like the Coolant Temperature sensor, Throttle Position Sensor and others but basic emissions troubleshooting will have us starting at the MAP sensor since it's usually the easiest one to access and check.  

The MAP sensor's job is basically to read engine vacuum and send a signal back to the PCM.  With an LT1 the PCM takes that vacuum value and compares it with the Air flow data from the MAF to see if the two values complement each other.  That allows the PCM to make more minute adjustments to the fuel mixture for performance and emissions.  It's also a sanity check for each sensor since the failure of one can be compensated for by the other.  Either one can provide enough data to allow the engine to continue to run but not as efficiently.

Some cars only have a MAP sensor but LT1's are a bit of a wild animal when it comes to tailpipe emissions. Getting the engine into emissions compliance takes a lot more data points than your average grocery-getter especially with high compression that lends itself to problems with NOx and CO issues.

So if you ever wondered why there's so many wires under your hood, now you know....

For me this is all kind of a reference exercise but for  you it might be instructional.  Enjoy!


Fuel Pressure testing...




Checking the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP)

Friday, October 23, 2015

Formula vs. Smog Check: cleaning up the combustion chambers with some B12 ( not the vitamin )


In the continuing saga of trying to get my beloved Formula to pass emissions this year I bring you my latest adventure.
Just to catch you up, the story is this.

My registration came up and when I dutifully reported to my local emissions testing station I was sadly informed that my car had failed...badly.

The only thing I passed was the gas cap test.  HC and CO were twice the acceptable values and NOx was even worse at 3 times the standard.

So I attacked the problem by switching back to Premium fuel, dealing with a bad EGR and Fuel Pressure Regulator and chasing down vacuum leaks.

Which is an excellent segue to my current project.  During my "leak" hunt I discovered that my PCV valve appeared to be the original piece.  Meaning it was time for replacement along with its associated vacuum line which after 20 years was as brittle as a potato chip.

I'd been doing some research on emissions failures and happened across a few videos about the benefits of combustion chamber cleaning.  I'm not talking about sticking a bottle in your gas tank at the next fill up.  Rather this is a process targeted specifically at cleaning up the combustion chambers and upper cylinders.  Some may call it snake oil but there is something to be said about trying to get rid of some of that built up carbon that inevitably bakes itself onto the tops of your pistons.  The cause?  Poor quality fuel, neglected maintenance and issues with the ignition system just to name a few. 

LT1's have a compression ratio of 10.5 to 1 right out of the factory, a bunch of crap on top of a piston after 100,000 miles decreases cylinder area and increases compression.  That leads to pre-ignition which is an uncontrolled explosion that happens sometime other than when the spark plug fires.  Uncontrolled explosions are ok for diesel engines, not LT1's.  It's a bad thing unless of course you like the idea of hammering the tops of your pistons and potentially bending a connecting rod.

There are a number of products out there to clean up the combustion chamber with some more snake oil than others but the two most popular are Seafoam and B12.

I chose the B12 Combustion Chamber Cleaner Part # 2610 after seeing a few YouTube videos and reading up on it.  I'd been running lower octane fuel for the past year to save a few bucks.  The car could tolerate it for awhile but not indefinitely and there would be a price to pay.

Call it a penance for the few bucks I'd saved by not giving the car the quality of fuel it really needed.

The procedure was fairly simple once I figured out what vacuum port to use.  Access to anything under the hood of a 4th generation Firebird is difficult.  Finding the right vacuum port without breaking parts that have been cooking under it for 20 years even more so.

I found a suitable port in the driver's side of the LT1 intake manifold right above the PCV valve I was fighting with earlier.  

I popped off the vacuum tee that was attached to it and connected the hose from the can of B12 making sure it wasn't in danger of contacting anything that could ruin my day.

One thing to be careful with here is to make sure to use the included hoses that come in the B12 kit.  There's an inline tee that functions to vent the line to keep the flow constant.

Once connected, it's pretty simple.  Start the car and let it run until the can is empty.  In my case it took about 15 minutes. 
I noticed some white smoke and water vapor coming out of the exhausts during the process as well as a slight chemical smell.  Nothing of note really aside from the wet spots immediately under the exhaust tips that seemed to stain the concrete a bit. 



If there was anything that alarmed me it was the sounds my catalytic converter made while the B12 made its way to the exhaust system.  A steady rattle that sounded like ball bearings in a metal coffee can.  Happily, a sound that went away once the can was emptied.

Recall that the catalytic converter is likely on its way out anyway.  In fact the whole point of this  emissions adventure is to see if I can get the car to pass without investing $250 in a new one. 

After the process completed and everything underhood was returned to normal I took the car out for a few runs up and down the freeway to burn off whatever B12 was left.  Some have reported dramatic smoking akin to all those SeaFoam videos but I didn't see much of anything. 

What I did notice was a bit smoother power delivery and a lessening of a slight miss at idle that I've had since I bought the car.  The instructions mention that using B12 may set a trouble code that can be safely reset without concern.   I saw no such code get set.  Apparently in some cases the amount of contaminants being sent out the exhaust can give a false positive to O2 sensors. 

Will this finally get me through emissions?  I don't know.  The only thing left to do now is an oil change immediately before taking it in again.  I'll wait a week to make sure all the B12 solvents are completely burned off to ensure I don't contaminate the new oil.  Not a big deal since I don't have that much oil blow-by anyway so I don't expect much of the B12 got into the crankcase.

Whatever the outcome of the test, none of these activities were a waste of time even if the car fails again.  The EGR and Fuel Pressure Regulator weren't working, the PCV valve and its grommet was overdue for replacement, vacuum lines needed to be checked, the car needed to be running the right grade of fuel and the combustion chamber was overdue for a cleaning. 

I'm just hoping I can put off the bill for a new Cat!

Saturday, August 23, 2014

Rear Transmission Mount on my 1995 Formula



Yesterday I received my new Transmission mount from RockAuto.  I got it because it's the first thing I thought of when I heard a very noticeable "Thud" from the floorboard when I gave it a little more gas than normal.

Now I wasn't completely sure that was the problem but for $8 it was cheap enough to give it a shot.  Well, it turned out it was indeed the problem.  The telltale sign that your LT1 F-body (93-97 model year) has this issue is a noticeable THUMP in the floorboards that comes from the rear console area when you nail the throttle and a general looseness in the rear end.  When the mount is bad it causes the torque arm that runs to the rear differential to rise with the tranny making the rear end even more squirrelly.

Mine was completely shot as you can see from the video.  

It's a simple enough procedure.

1. Raise the car to a convenient work height
2. Grab a jack and support the transmission. 
3. Remove the mount to crossmember nut (5.8)
4. Remove the trans crossmember (4 bolts, 2 per side)
5. Unbolt the old mount from the transmission (13MM socket)
6. Install the new mount to the transmission, flat side facing the rear of the car
7. Re-install crossmember, If the stud doesn't go through the hole you likely have the mount on backwards
8. Lower the jack holding the transmission up.
9. Re-install the bolt and washer on the tranny mount stud that's poking through the crossmember.
10. Get your crap out from under the car and lower it down.
11. You're done, go take a test drive.

Note, I've included a section in the video showing the part numbers for the transmission crossmember for these cars.  If you have to go on a junkyard hunt they'll be helpful.

The stamping on mine are:
10198323
10198347-C
LT1-MD8/M30




Hope this helps!

Enjoy the Vid!



Wednesday, July 23, 2014

The Optispark distributor, the best and worst idea GM ever had



Ever get that sinking feeling? 

Gearheads do, all the time.  For many it's almost like ESP.  We just know something's off even if we can't quite put or finger on it.  Maybe it's subtle.  The occasional misfiring ignition, a hard start condition or maybe the not so subtle hint that's something gone wrong when your car just stops.
Any of those symptoms can indicate a problem with the ignition system but when it's a car equipped with the GM Optispark optical distributor you're going to be questioning the "excellence" in the "GM mark of excellence"

What's an Optispark?

The Optispark is a unique ignition system found primarily on GM's venerated LT1, LT4 and L99 V8's from 1992 to 1997.  This was the second generation of the GM small block V8 motor and the first major design change since 1955.  Unlike its predecessors, the Optispark distributor is an optically triggered ignition system much like those seen in high performance and race vehicles. 

Optisparks showed up in everything from Corvettes to Cadlillac Fleetwoods and they all have the same design flaw.  That being, putting it in the absolute worst place you could possibly locate a component sensitive to heat, moisture and oil contamination.

Put yourself in the following scenario.  Imagine having a job where you were forced to work next to a blast furnace every day with the threat of a huge water pipe bursting over your head.

That's pretty much the life of an Optispark distributor.  Buried deep under belts, hoses, pulleys and a water pump, the unit can be barely seen and hard to service. Replacement is always a major undertaking involving the removal of the aforementioned bits and pieces as well as assorted brackets, wiring harnesses and other assemblies depending on the vehicle being serviced.

So just what's different about an Optispark?

Other than the look of it, not much really.  It's still a distributor that requires a rotor, Ignition module and coil to provide spark to the spark plugs at the right time.  The primary difference is that timing is determined via an optical signal instead of the position of a reluctor or cam follower.  Normal distributors usually have shaft with a rotor on one end and a gear on the other that meshes with its counterpart on the camshaft.

Where the only indication of incorrect timing on a regular distributor is a poorly running engine, the Optispark ignition provides feedback to the engine's PCM.  Using data from other sensors at its disposal, the PCM can then adjust the ignition timing to optimize engine operation.  

It utilizes an optical pickup assembly that reads a thin rotating disk with two rows of perforations punched into it.  One row is comprised of 360 slots on the outer ring with another row of 4 cutouts of differing size on the inner ring corresponding to 90 degrees of engine rotation.  The disk rides on a bearing assembly mounted into a base plate that engages with the timing assembly on the front of the engine.  As the engine rotates the optical pickup reads the position of the disc and reports that information back to the PCM where it can adjust the ignition timing according to current conditions. The major components of the distributor are fairly simple consisting of:
  • ·         A cap
  • ·         Rotor
  • ·         Plastic separator
  • ·         Metal separator
  • ·         Optical pick up assembly
  • ·         Timing wheel
  • ·         Wheel support disc
  • ·         Bearing assembly
  • ·         The man body or base plate

Aside from some sealing gaskets and the wiring harness there's not much more to it.


Depending on the year of the engine, the distributor engages the crankshaft timing gear with either a splined shaft or on later engines (95+) a large bearing resembling a hockey puck with cutouts to engage a pin on the engine's timing gear.  An issue with condensation and ozone buildup in earlier models of the Optispark (92-94) caused premature failure.  GM redesigned the distributor for later models in an attempt to eliminate the issue.  The easiest way to tell the difference between the two is the presence (or absence) or two rubber hoses connected to the distributor.  One is connected to vacuum while the other usually connects to the intake ducting of the engine.


The Optispark distributor allows for both fine and coarse tuning of the engine timing and has a certain amount of redundancy because of the presence of those two timing rings.  Should something short of catastrophic failure (which usually happens anyway) interfere with either timing signal, the engine can continue to run at reduced power levels.  It usually sets a code in the engine's PCM that will trigger the Service engine light. 

Most common codes are:

P0372 - Loss of the high resolution timing signal ( not reading any of the 360 slots) 
* 92 to 95 engines will set an OBD1 code of 36

P1371 - Loss of low resolution signal ( Not reading the 4 cutouts) 
* 92 to 95 engines will set an OBD1 code of 16


The design allows finer control of the timing by reading not just what cylinder is firing in relation to mechanical engine timing ( what valves are open, where the pistons are in their stroke etc.) but exactly what degree in rotation the engine is currently in.  In this way the Engine's control computer or PCM knows exactly where the timing sequence was in relation to a specific condition and how long it lasted.  For example, If a condition such as a misfiring plug were indicated, the PCM would be able to either correct the condition or set a trouble code.

Sounds great, so what can go wrong?

Oh wow, let me count the ways...

I remember when optical pickup distributors were cutting edge.  Using light to time an engine might as well have been rocket science to most shade tree mechanics. 

Usually, optically based ignition systems are among the most accurate and reliable ignition systems available.  Even modern so-called "Distributor less" ignitions use "flying magnet" or Hall effect sensors that operate similarly to optical triggered ignition systems but use magnetism instead of light to determine timing.

BUT...

Unlike most ignition systems that are generally designed to keep the most sensitive components away from harm the Optispark stands in stark contrast.


It sits low on the front of the engine between the water pump and crankshaft pulley and sandwiched between a rats nest of cooling hoses, brackets and engine accessories.  It's at just the right height to get drowned by the undercarriage spray at the local car wash and sit's below a notoriously leaky water pump.  Lest we forget seals for both the distributor to timing cover and water pump shaft whose inevitable failure are sure to coat the Optispark in a greasy mess. 

There's usually some degree of warpage on most Optispark distributor caps which allows gaps in the seal between cap and distributor.  That makes it even easier for infiltration of water and oil.

Then there's the issue of varying quality of replacements.  I've yet to find any source for replacement of just the optical pickup assembly which is the most critical component of the Optispark.  That means failure of it requires replacement of the whole distributor.  With prices ranging from $50 for a unit guaranteed to leave you stranded to $900 for a GM aftermarket unit that may be no better you could go broke before you found a reliable source.  Nothing like doing the same job two or three times before you finally get one that works.
We've talked a lot about failure of the Distributor itself but don't forget about the wiring.  Mid 90's wiring harnesses tended toward the flimsy and after 2 decades they can get a bit crispy.  It's always good policy to check the wiring  before going to all the trouble and expense of replacing an Optispark only to find out a $20 Distributor harness would have fixed the problem. 

A good source for troubleshooting Optispark ignition issues can be found at SHBOX.com.  While focused on 93-97 Camaro and Firebird models the troubleshooting steps will work on LT1's installed on other models.  If you have one of these engines, this is a bookmark you'll use often.


So if you've made it this far you'd probably like to know how to fix your Optispark problems.  Aside from the link above we'll leave that topic for the next article.

Friday, July 18, 2014

A Gearhead and proud of it!


I've been doing blogs for almost 4 years now so it's only appropriate that my 4th offering be a little different.  I've written about video games, information technology, job hunting and even current events.  In other words, anything that struck my fancy except for the one passion that frequently makes me question what I do for a living.

I've often said that I can be working on my cars and lose hours in a day without noticing it.  Whereas working in IT means spending most of my days being painfully aware of every second that slowly ticks by.  

I like to be doing things, moving forward, making things better and know I'm moving toward a goal.  IT can offer that but only if you've got an active project. 

It's the primary reason that I consider myself a "Gearhead" which is pretty much the same thing as a "Petrolhead" everywhere else in the world.  I think there's one distinct difference, however. 

It strikes me that most people who call themselves petrolheads tend more toward the driving experience than turning wrenches.  Gearheads like to get their hands dirty and they'll be the first to tell you so.  

That I can watch a popular UK series like Top Gear and see a Mercedes sedan called a "Muscle Car" is an indicator of either a misunderstanding of the term or a completely different definition.  

In my view, Mercedes never made a "Muscle Car."

Hey, I appreciate that getting a 5000 pound car to hit 60 Miles per hour in less than 6 seconds is an accomplishment.  But doing it while seated in heated Italian leather seating "surfaces" while enjoying every conceivable mobile amenity is the realm of luxury.  Muscle cars are about going fast and not much more.  



We coined the term in America in the 60's and the legends that it came to be applied to definitely left most of the options on the order sheet blank.  In fact even air conditioning was considered luxury back then. Gearheads don't mind a little sweat.  

With those cars you were probably going to be sweating anyway as they weren't the most reliable vehicles and many a Saturday night was spent under the hood.  

So maybe there is a difference in terminology but the love of all things that move under their own power is the same.  So I can claim that kinship even if I don't agree with all the terminology.

Gearheads don't mind getting their hands dirty, in fact they prefer it.  They enjoy a more spirited means of getting from point A to B just like their petrolhead counterparts but it's far more enjoyable if they know they've had a hand in making the drive happen.

Nothing is more discouraging to a gearhead than popping the hood and finding a bunch of stuff they can't fix.  Engineered obsolescence has been around since the days of the Model T but in the past few decades it's been downright hostile to our kind.

Cramped engine compartments stuffed with engine covers and beauty pieces designed to hide all those "ugly bits."  Pop the hood (or bonnet) of many European cars these days and you'd be hard pressed to find the engine let alone identify how many cylinders it has.  Some are so shrouded in covers and useless trim that you'd be excused if you thought you were looking at the trunk (or boot for my UK readers.)  

That doesn't stop the determined gearhead. however.

For us "stock" isn't good enough.  We're going to figure out a way to go faster, get better mileage and look cooler than the next guy.  If we can do all three it's even better.  



We wear high mileage like a badge of honor.  100,000 mile trade-ins are for wimps.  Real gearheads can get at least twice that before they give up on their ride, assuming they ever do.

We can point to those little victories that come with fixing it ourselves with a pride that other people get from kicking the winning goal or receiving a university degree.


Which means gearheads are forever chasing the win (or the wind in some cases) and we'll do whatever it takes to have our fix.  

So I've drawn a line in the sand.  If you don't enjoy working on your car as much as you do driving it you're not a gearhead, you're an enthusiast and that's fine.  I'll have stuff that will appeal to you as well.

So I start this new blog with a new gearhead mantra...

If it ain't broke you're not looking hard enough!